Würzburg

Yesterday dawned bright and sunny, a perfect day to ride the train to Würzburg. The entire journey took about 1 1/4 hours and the last portion was on the rockiest rolliest train I've yet to ride in Germany. As we neared Würzburg the terrain became increasingly hilly, planted with crops like corn, fruit orchards, and grape vines. The vines were all planted with military precision, growing in perfectly straight lines running up to the crest of each hill, dripping with burgeoning clusters of green grapes swaying gently in the soft breeze. I found myself wondering if the vines continued down the other side of the hill as well or gave way to scrub brush and trees.

Tim and I drove to the post exchange at a military installation in Würzburg once, but we did not visit the downtown area. As I recall it was just too much hassle with the World's Fussiest Toddler (Yes, Jordan, that would be you) in tow.

I walked from the train station in the downtown area, crossing over a multitude of trolley tracks and dodging myriad bicyclists as I went. There were lots of stores and bakeries in evidence and the first store I came to was a clothing store in which I'd shopped in Ansbach, C&A. I stopped by the large-sized clothing section, which had a better selection than the Ansbach store, and was thrilled to find a purple shirt and a replacement jacket for that hideous, loud, turqoise number I brought from home and avoid wearing. The new coat was marked down from 49 euro to 19 (about $29), and is lightweight, black with tan trim and has a hood. It is a little nicer looking than the one I had so I will be able to wear it for dressier occasions. I have bought three shirts with long sleeves recently as I suspect that there will be cooler weather in the mountains in 2 weeks, and in Italy in November. I am glad to find more affordable clothing here as money is definitely a concern.

I continued wandering the downtown area and was disappointed to encounter two churches that were closed, as I had wanted to explore them. I found a number of bookstores and enjoyed a bit of browsing. Eventually I stopped for lunch (and dinner, as it turns out), a stracciatellabecher, a huge sundae of stracciatella eis (chocolate chip ice cream) topped with a mountain of whipped cream, a waterfall of chocolate sauce, and not one, but two little cookies; one a chocolate covered wafer, and the other, one of those chocolate and vanilla ones that looks like a rolled up crepe. I was a bit embarrassed to be confronted with this enormous concoction sitting at an outdoor cafe', but tackled it anyway. I managed to wade through the cookies, the mound of whipped cream, which I love, and about half the ice cream before calling it a day. It was a lovely day and I actually became a bit overheated until one of the waitresses came out and unfurled an gigantic umbrella, which sheltered me and granted me a welcome bit of shade.

Directly behind the cafe' was the Dom, cathedral, which I investigated after indulging in my ice cream orgy. It is a rather nondescript church from the outside, fronted with huge, metal doors in a very modern design. The inside was lovely with modern stained glass windows in soft shades of tan, gray, green, lilac, and blue, placed high in the white walls, and the area behind the altar was light, bright, and covered with ornate decoration. After leaving a small donation I walked to a second, smaller church notable for its white and red exterior coloration. The wall surfaces were white, and the carved stone decoration and lacy steeple were made of a bright red stone, unlike anything I think I have ever seen. The inside was simple but, unlike most German churches I have visited, had vividly colored stained glass windows fashioned in a modern design. The left side of the church contained an altar decorated with a Madonna and Child statue fabricated of shining silver and gold-colored metal.

When my feet got tired I wandered back to the train station and caught a train home. When I arrived at the apartment, it was to a big surprise. My friend, Barb, had mailed me a package of books! I was thrilled with the books and immediately began a book written by a veterinarian, which I finished over coffee this morning. I am very appreciative of her thoughtfulness and kindness and I cannot think of a gift which I will enjoyed more!!