Assisi

I drove into the neighboring region of Umbria today to visit the city of Assisi. It was a gorgeous drive, with a number of tunnels along the way. There’s been enough rain to cause the plants and fields to be lush and green. The flowers are just incredible right now and their brilliant colors soften the stone buildings. Apparently there are regulations about the colors buildings can be painted as most buildings are either natural stone, or soft shades of buff, beige, light yellow and terracotta. Everything is soft as though gently burnished by the soft fingers of a warm sun. No bright reds, greens, blues, and purples as in Ireland!

Assisi is an ancient hill town. I parked in a garage about halfway up the hill and walked the rest of the way. The town is very historic, yet well maintained and spotlessly clean. I ducked through gates, climbed stairs, dodged down alleys, and finally emerged at a large piazza where rows of bleachers had been set up. Red flags decorated each building and as I ventured further into town I saw posters advertising some sort of medieval pageant. What’s more, as the day progressed I noticed more and more people of all ages arriving in medieval costumes, many rough wool or linen and some lush velvets and rich brocades as well. Many men were dressed in tights and tunics and a number were carrying large drums.

When I emerged at a smaller piazza near a church, a number of young women had spread materials out and were preparing decorative wreathes and arches. The forms were made of chicken wire and the women were weaving flexible branches of greenery and colorful ribbons into the frame to finish the decoration. Animal skins, leather, and drums were also laid out across the piazza. This must be festival headquarters!

Numerous small shops in town carried a variety of religious statuettes, pictures, paintings. medals, and jewelry. I took shelter in a doorway as a truck of merry makers drove by honking, pounding the roof of the truck cab, and teasing a group of girls, who didn’t appear to mind a bit. It was really wonderful to see the young people in the community taking part so actively in this festival. I would hate to think that they all made for the large cities to attend universities or to search for work once they graduated high school. This obviously remains a vital and active community which celebrates its heritage with joy. How wonderful!

I had an utterly forgettable lunch at a bar, and was on my way to the enormous San Francesco church when I suffered an unfortunate intestinal episode, no doubt the result of eating two dinners the night before, which forced me to find the only bathroom I’d seen, back in the parking garage! I did not feel up to hiking back up the hill, so had to forgo a visit to this beautiful church. Maybe next time.